Footswitches for Clean Boost/Fat Option
Here are some footswitches that have a TRS (tip, ring, sleeve) or stereo plug and two switches. Some have LEDs, but they won’t light because the Blues Junior senses the position of the switches by sending a -15 volt signal through the switches. When it’s grounded by the appropriate switch, the Fat or Clean Boost turns on. It’s possible that you could rewire one of the LED-equipped pedals by reversing the polarity of the LEDs and putting them in series with the switch. It may require a dropping resistor to prevent damage to the LED and too large a dropping resistor may prevent the amp from sensing the switch position.
I haven’t tested this modification, however, so you’re on your own.
http://www.music123.com/Crate-CFS2-2-Button-Footswitch-487716-i1146082.Music123
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Two-Button-VibratoReverb-Footswitch?sku=420706
http://www.music123.com/Cliff-FCR6919P-Dual-Button-Amp-Footswitch-158006-i1124927.Music123
You might be able to rewire the LEDs on this one by putting them in series with the switches, positive side to ground:
http://www.music123.com/Marshall-PED802-Footswitch-with-LEDs-482940-i1145916.Music123
how come fender doesn’t have a foot switch available for the blues junior. Although me personally, never have the amp off the fat switch.
Fender does have a footswitch available for the Blues Junior, but any simple on/off footswitch will work to control the Fat. The purpose of this section is to show some switches that will work with the modified stereo jack that controls the Fat switch and the Clean Boost.
** you can assy a simple 2 switch footswitch using DPDT switches. one side for the effect the other to lite an LEd via a 9v batt in series with …say..2K resistor…adjust value for brightness… batt should lasta decent amt of time( use a 3mm LED.
Hey Bill
Looking at the circuit diagram that came with my Blues Jr, I see the FAT with the switch is on it grounds the -15V through a 22k resistor, which gives a through-current of 0.6mA.
I already have a footswitch with LEDs which i had previously disconnected so I thought I’d give it a go to connect the LEDs in series with the switch with no drop resistor (given the very low current), and I can tell you that the switch activates fine and the LED lights up, but it’s really dim.
It’s still bright enough to see that it’s on in medium light conditions, although it’s a bit less clear if you’re trying to figure out if the switch is currently on or off from any distance away.
I have a few common-or-garden LEDs in by box-of-bits and i tried them all with varying degrees of success – some barely light at all.
I’ve kept brightest one on the FAT side of the switch.
On the clean boost side though, even this LED does is very dim, so i’m guessing your circuit makes the ground connection on a through an even higher resistance, right?
Since I don’t have your circuit schematic for the clean boost, is it possible you could advise me of the current draw to ground through the switch on the clean boost module? Or at least tell me the resistance value and I’ll do the math.
I’m going to have to get a hold of some lower-current LEDs, and I want to make the right choice that will work fine on both sides.
Thanks
Sean
The pull-up (-down?) resistor is 27K. Let me know how it turns out!
And the winner is…… XLAG12W LEDs Made by SunLED. They worked a treat.
I used a Roland footswitch. I put a LED in series with the switch. I got the LED in a 2 pack at Radio Shack and it was one for “automotive charger applications”. I think it might have an internal resister. I tried it either way till it lit and it is bright. I drilled a small hole on the footswitch housing an put a rubber grommet in and then the LED with a little silicone glue to secure it. I works graet. I use the amp and switch for my harmonicas.
I use the Fernder two button switch. It’s labeled REV and VIB, but I’ll make a new label to stick over the top. Looks great with the nice retro fender volume pedal!