Replacing Snap-in Pots

I don’t send out instructions with the audio-taper snap-in pots because I think the process is fairly straightforward. Some people have asked for more guidance, however, so I added this video.

When you install the new pot, make sure it is fully seated and that you fill the spring holes with solder. Heat the spring, not the trace, so you don’t lift it. There should be enough conducted heat so that solder flows easily onto the trace and fills the center hole.

17 Comments

  1. eugene-b says:

    Hi, Bill. Got a question about the audio-taper pot: will it change the highest volume level when installed instead of the stock master pot?

  2. Camus says:

    Hi, can i use a 250k for the volume pot or is the 1M only option ??

    • bill says:

      With 250K in the Volume position, the amp will be quieter overall because more signal will drain to ground through the pot. It will also have a smaller range of adjustment. I would not use a 250K pot there.

  3. kentf14 says:

    Hi Bill.
    I just received my parts and wanted to verify that the blue 101K 3KV capacitor belongs to the auto-taper pot kit?

  4. kentf14 says:

    Great stuff Bill. I did the above mods in about 2 hours and now have a “new” amp. I couldn’t have imagined how great the Blues Jr sounds now! I suffered with my green board amp for about 13 years before taking the time to break out the soldering iron. It’s going to be hard to justify buying another amp anytime soon 😉

    Thanks!

  5. eddie_bowers says:

    I typically run the Master volume wide open (it just sounds better this way), but this makes the Volume/Gain control hard very sensitive to the smallest change around the 2-3 range.
    Is there a 1M audio taper pot (same snap in form factor) that I could replace it with?

    BTW, I just find that the amp sounds more lively when the master is wide open. If there is another approach to using the master without loosing that tone, i’m open to that too. I use the amp at volumes where it’s slightly dirty and use pedals for any additional dirt. It currently has almost all of the BillM mods (just not the High-voltage preamp mod).

  6. Wes says:

    Thanks very much for this. While awaiting the stdby switch am contemplating replacing the stock reverb with a MOD unit, as the stock one is a seriously piercing to my ears and audio taper would seem to be the way to get the best out of the new one.

    Thanks again – I think even I could do this & that’s saying something.

  7. lousaad says:

    These pots are a really poor design on Fender’s part. Frankly I’m surprised. Isn’t there a replacement part that is superior that will use standard knobs? I would think that with the plethora of pots available in the market, that something would be better than what Fender designed…

    • bill says:

      I assure you that I’ve tried every pot with the right height from the board to the hole centers, and nothing has the right pin spacing or distance from the edge of the board. I’ve also looked into having a flexible circuit board made to connect panel-mounted pots to the circuit board. The cost is prohibitive from what few manufacturers were interested in a relatively small run (1000 or so).

      The pots are well protected and will give long service if you use the bushings and screw-on knobs from the Series III. You can get them from http://www.tubesandmore.com, as well as other vendors.

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